Lake Manyara, Tanzania (Aug. 7-8)

I closed yesterday’s post with our late afternoon arrival at the lovely Lake Manyara Serena Lodge. 

The main building of Lake Minyara Serena Lodge
Part of the beautiful landscaping

The remainder of the day was devoted to continuing my research into East African beers …

Current rankings: Tusker holds its top spot, followed closely by Serengeti, with Safari trailing far behind in third place

… Listening to lively Tanzanian music …

The three percussionists. The music was harmonically simple but as rhythmically complex as anything I’ve ever heard. The rightmost drummer often played a beat that was far removed from the rhythm of the words he sang; meanwhile the other percussionists played entirely different beats, with the one in the middle generally providing the meter for the melody.
The full ensemble

… and gaping in amazement at a troupe of acrobats (they were Pretty Darned Fun).

After the performance, our group had a barbecue featuring goat. (I set all kidding aside and passed, but found plenty of savory Indian food to eat.) After dark, we were joined by a genet, a small African wild cat that’s rarely seen but I guess couldn’t resist the aroma of the barbecue.

This morning we headed out on a different kind of safari, driving through the forest and shrub savanna of Lake Manyara National Park.  Lake Manyara is famed for its tree-climbing lions.  The lions, alas, one-upped their cousin the Cheshire Cat and vanished, smile and all.  Likewise, Manyara’s leopards, while being unable to change their spots, declined to be spotted.

The main attractions may have taken the morning off, but we still saw plenty of wildlife: 

Baboons trooping around, some with babies on their backs, others communing, and one practicing good dental hygiene …

… Elephants grazing on trees and lumbering imperiously beside and between our jeeps …

… Blue monkeys leaping high in the trees …

… Impalas nervously glancing around …

… Waterbucks standing stolidly …

Edwin told a funny “just so” story about how the waterbuck got the markings on its backside: When Noah had built his ark but was still painting the fixtures, the waterbuck was the first animal to board and immediately sat down on the toilet, the paint on which had not yet dried

… and an Augur buzzard …

Following lunch back at the hotel, we headed to our next destination, Ngorongoro.  Along the way we stopped at the Tanzanite Experience, a warehouse-sized building selling that and other gems as well as wood carvings, metal sculptures, tee shirts, and lots else.

Almost every tour company now includes a stop at such a place – I can only assume these are mutually beneficial arrangements – and most of the time I don’t mind, because I can see artisans at work and learn new things.  The Tanzanite Experience, unfortunately, was simply an opportunity to contribute to the local economy.  After a brief presentation about how tanzanite is mined, we were turned loose on the sales floor.  Fifteen minutes later, I’d seen enough.  One or two of my fellow travelers made purchases, but most of us hung out near the jeeps waiting to leave.  Speaking for myself, I’d encourage Odysseys to drop this “experience” from the tour.

The final half of the two-hour ride to Ngorongoro is on a narrow, hair-pinned, rutted, heavily trafficked road.   It’s worth every bounce and rattle: as soon as I stepped off the jeep, the rigors of the ride evaporated.  At 7600 feet of elevation, the lodge sits high above the floor of the crater, affording extraordinary views, silent surroundings, and cool mountain air.  

My room
Panorama of the view from my room

I’ll say a bit more about the lodge in tomorrow’s post.  Right now, it’s time to get ready for the evening’s entertainment, a Maasai dance show, followed by dinner. 

One thought on “Lake Manyara, Tanzania (Aug. 7-8)

  1. I love the drawing of the baboon on your room’s wall. And I see you’re reading Ed Yong’s An Immense World, which is on my list. Yong is one of my favorite writers/journalists; have you read I Contain Multitudes? He did some of the seminal reporting on the COVID pandemic for The Atlantic.

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