Prague, April 30-May 1

On Thursday morning, we bid farewell to Krakow and began our journey to Prague.  Much of the drive to the Czech border took us past beautiful fields of yellow rapeseed. 

As we approached the Czech Republic, the terrain turned to rolling, pine- and beech-covered hills.  We stopped for lunch in the small city of Olomouc, whose gleaming white city hall overlooks a cobblestoned plaza, upon which high school students dressed in costumes celebrated the end of their exams. 

Olomouc City Hall

After reaching Prague in the late afternoon, we had to say good-bye to Sandor, our kind, funny, informative guide, and to George, our bus driver, who conveyed us safely and with good cheer all the way from Warsaw. 

Hare Krishnas chanting their way through Prague’s Old City

Unfortunately, we were greeted with the disappointing news that low water in the Elbe River would preclude us from actually cruising on our river cruise.  Instead, after our time in Prague, we’ll spend two days on one ship, take tours by bus to the places we would have been sailing to, then transfer to another ship for the final three days – again, staying put while we bus to our destinations.  It’s not ideal, but it’s a risk inherent in river cruises. 

Church of St. Nicholas, backlit by the setting sun

We’re staying at the Prague Hilton Atrium.  There are any number of charming, convenient, five-star hotels in this glorious city.  Alas, the Hilton Atrium only checks (Czechs?) the last of those boxes.  It’s a massive, hulking building located almost a mile from the Old Town – a fine establishment, with comfortable rooms and a lovely staff, but bereft of character.  (Yes, I feel more than a bit ashamed to be carping about this, but how else was I going to get that pun in?)

Typical (!) Prague skyline

I was in Prague – or Praha, as the Czechs say – in 2018, on another Viking river cruise.  I posted at length about that visit, lauding the city’s beauty, quirky museums, plethora of bookstores, and devotion to beer, among other things.  Last night, while walking off a delicious dinner – more on that in a bit – I was mulling over ways to write a post that doesn’t repeat what I’ve already written, but found myself distracted by the majestic buildings. 

Aha moment – or, more accurately, Praha moment:   I’ll turn this post into a photo essay on Prague’s cityscape: fewer words (I can hear your sighs of relief) and more pictures.

St. Vitus Cathedral

Prague’s architecture is literally inspiring in two senses:  First, it truly is breathtaking.  Second, countless spires punctuate the horizon. 

Towers of Tyn Church
Tyn Church
St. Vitus Cathedral

In addition to spires, many of Prague’s Gothic, Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque masterpieces bear beautiful frescos, sgraffito, and other decorations.  It’s hard to walk a block without encountering structures whose elegance and allure made me want to stop, marvel, and snap.  (Likewise, it’s hard to walk a block without encountering a Starbucks, often located in one of those elegant and alluring edifices.)

In addition to the remarkable buildings, there are dozens of glorious statues, many along the famous Charles Bridge or anchoring some of Prague’s many squares. 

Main gate of Prague Castle
Jan Hus Memorial
Every building should sport a flying stag!

There’s also street art and, of course, the justly famous astronomical clock.

Such a feast for the eyes should be capped off with a feast for the stomach.  I met up in Prague with my good friends and frequent travel companions, Andy and Char, and one of Andy’s many talents is an unerring nose for great places to eat.  He worked his magic once again, and we concluded our time in Prague with a scrumptious dinner at Mlýnec (Novotného Lavka 9, a block from the Charles Bridge).  It’s expensive, but delightful.  If you’re interested in going, make a reservation a day or two ahead of time.

I’m finishing this post on Saturday morning.  In a few hours, we’re boarding a bus that will deliver us to our ship.  Ahoj for now!

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