Transiting the Panama Canal: Bay Gulls and Locks (July 14)

OK, there’s no bay, but there are gulls, and in this post-truth era, who am I to let accuracy stand in the way of a pun?  Schmearly second nature to me.

Not a bay gull
Panama City, seen before reaching the Pacific entrance to the Canal

Enough of that (until the next time).  The Panama Canal was every bit as impressive as I expected.  It’s mind-boggling (at least to my boggle-prone mind) to imagine the effort and ingenuity that went into creating a 51-mile-long waterway through dense jungle and steep mountains using early 20th century technology – and I don’t just mean the fact that air-conditioning hadn’t been invented yet.

The Bridge of the Americas, with Miraflores Locks in the background

If anything, the politics that surrounded the Canal’s construction were even more mind-boggling than the engineering.  Basically, President Teddy Roosevelt got tired of dealing with opponents in Congress who favored a route through Nicaragua, ginned up a Panamanian secession from Colombia after Colombia’s legislature failed to approve a treaty granting the US control of the area, and sent in US ships (hence “gunboat diplomacy”) and troops to keep Colombia from striking back.  The wonderful historian David McCullough tells the story beautifully in “The Path Between the Seas.”  Read it – and everything else by McCullough – if you’re at all interested.

Another view of the Bridge of the Americas

Transiting the canal is a leisurely (8 hours or so) but remarkable experience.  During the course of the transit, we passed several container ships as well as vessels carrying chemicals, grain, and …  yachts.

Container ship
Container ship under the Centennial Bridge
Deck of a ship carrying chemicals
Ship carrying yachts

We even had a crocodile escorting us for a mile or so.

Escort crocodile

We arrived near Panama City a bit after seven this morning and, after taking on the first of several guide pilots, sailed under the Bridge of the Americas and entered the Miraflores Locks around 9:30. 

The Miraflores Locks raise ships 54 feet above sea level, pumping in 26 million gallons of water from artificially created Lake Miraflores in order to do so.  Lake Miraflores leads to another Lock (Pedro Miguel), which raises ships another 31 feet. 

Part of the Miraflores Locks
We followed this ship through the Locks

We then passed under the graceful Centennial Bridge, which carries the Pan-American Highway. 

Centennial Bridge, unfortunately photographed through the ship’s tinted windows

After the bridge comes the Culebra Cut, which bisects the Continental Divide and leads eventually to Gatun Lake, another artificial water body that was created (according to our guide) by damming more than twenty rivers.

Gatun Lake

Gatun Lake is 15 miles long.  It’s surrounded by lush jungle featuring countless shades of green punctuated by occasional purple-flowered trees. 

At the end of Gatun Lake, the Gatun Locks return Atlantic-bound ships to sea level. 

Approaching Gatun Lake, with the Atlantic Bridge in the background

Just before reaching the Gatun Locks, we passed a baseball game, which I gazed at longingly after not seeing any baseball for the past two weeks.  (Not that I’ve missed anything positive, at least as far as my Nats are concerned.)

Baseball is big in Panama, birthplace of Rod Carew, Mariano Rivera, and many other Major League Baseball players

After emerging from the Gatun Locks and gliding under the new Atlantic Bridge – twin to the Centennial Bridge – we entered the Caribbean Sea on our way to Cartagena, Colombia, where we dock tomorrow.

Our Canal pilot leaving the ship

Hasta luego!

2 thoughts on “Transiting the Panama Canal: Bay Gulls and Locks (July 14)

  1. Infectious disease nerd here. The canal’s construction was not only interesting from an engineering standpoint, but from a medical standpoint as well. The French had huge losses to yellow fever and malaria during their tenure on the project. By the time the Americans took over, there was a fresh understanding of how those infections were transmitted, and preventive measures could be implemented.

    I don’t think I had an appreciation for how long it takes to pass through the canal!

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