New Zealand’s capital is nicknamed “windy Wellington,” which is true enough given its aeolian exuberance, but why harp on the weather? There are several other “W” words that spring to mind when I think back on my two days there: words like whimsical, winsome, and wondrous.
Wellington is a beautiful city, with an eclectic mix of houses rising steeply into the hills surrounding the harbor and a sparkling, modern downtown right on the waterfront.
The air is crisp and clean, and the city abounds in indoor and outdoor attractions. It’s sort of a mash-up of San Francisco, San Diego, and the Pacific Northwest, seasoned liberally with New Zealand’s native Māori culture.
I can’t think of another world capital that takes itself so lightly and celebrates inclusivity so thoroughly. Colorful, often humorous street art is everywhere.
Some walk signs celebrate a transgender military vet, Carmen Rupe, who became a drag queen and trans rights activist.
Others depict a Māori Haka dancer.
Still others honor Kate Sheppard, a suffragist whose efforts led to New Zealand becoming the first nation to grant women the right to vote.
On a bike tour of the city, I saw houses and buildings ranging from Victorian to Art Deco to bleeding-edge modern. Because the surrounding hills are so steep, some of the higher-up residences can be reached only by several flights of steep steps.
The solution: Install a personal cable car from the street to your front door – the cost ranges from $100,000 well into the millions. (The bike tour was run by Switched On Bikes. I recommend them – the bikes were in good shape and the guide, Denny, was both knowledgeable and fun to talk to.)
New Zealand seems to honor and include its indigenous people more than other nations, although there is concern that the recently elected nationalist government may roll back progress.
Symbols of Māori culture are everywhere, and many whites know at least some of the language.
Te Papa, the National Museum, has terrific displays of Māori art, technology, and culture, as well as fascinating exhibits about New Zealand’s unique natural history. (Admission is free.)
Other attractions of Wellington include the 2/3 beautiful legislative buildings – a graceful library, a stately legislative chamber, and (to my eyes) an odd legislative office building called the “Beehive” for obvious reasons.
Wellington’s cricket ground, Basin Reserve, is lush and pristine. Its waterfront is extensive, pedestrian- and bike-friendly, and chock full of restaurants, bars, galleries, and other draws.
And its railroad station is elegant and unsoiled.
I usually don’t single out restaurants in these write-ups because there are so many good ones. But last night’s dinner at Shed 5 was particularly enjoyable, so they deserve a shout out. I had a delicious yellowfin tuna, and several of my companions had fish and chips, which they thought was superb. It was made with a local white fish called Tarakihi.
I can’t leave Wellington without trying to put into words its wonderful feel: it’s hip, very laid-back (even more so than Melbourne and Sydney), cultured, sporty, and welcoming. Haere rā (goodbye) for now.
PuffinlessTravel 