Scandinavia and Russia

Hello loyal readers (if any – readers, that is, loyal or otherwise).  I’m off on a cruise to Scandinavia and Russia with my 15-year old son.  First stop is Copenhagen, followed by 11 days aboard the Emerald Princess.

Day 1-2:  Copenhagen (July 15-16)

Oh to be in Denmark in the Summer.  All it takes (other than the money) is enduring 3 flights over a 20-hour period, BWI to Cincinnati, to Paris, to Copenhagen.  I’m sure there were more efficient ways of getting here, but when you book flights through a cruise company you gets what you gets (including the $500 per person discount).

Copenhagen is a friendly, walkable city but I was underwhelmed.  At least in the center city area, each street is a charming as the next, but there’s the rub.  (This is Denmark, after all.)  They all look pretty much the same – rows of 5 or 6 story buildings, each of which is pleasant enough on its own but all of which together prove architecturally monotonous.  I guess the basically flat skyline is appropriate for this flattest of countries.

The only real splash of color is Nyhavn (the “new harbor”), which is lined with brightly painted restaurants and cafes.   The canal boat tours departing from Nyhavn are a good way to see this part of the city, although taking one on a warm day with a gentle breeze after an all-night flight from the U.S. is guaranteed to bring on a deep and satisfying slumber.

Another highlight of canal tour was a phenomenal sand sculpture display.

Tivoli Gardens was disappointing, although I understand it’s beautiful at night.  For the roughly $19 per person entrance fee, you get to wander among more than a dozen ice cream shops, another dozen purveyors of baked goods or hamburgers, and an assortnment of rides (all of which carry an extra ticket charge).  It’s probably a good place to go if you’re traveling with little kids.

Also disappointing was the Little Mermaid statue.  It is indeed little, and a mermaid, and a statue.  End of story, except for the legions of tourists surrounding it.

Other noteworthy points:  there’s a surprising amount of graffiti.  At first I thought the drawings were “street art” along the train tracks, but virtually every overpass, canal bridge, and blank wall is tagged.  It’s a bit jarring given how clean the city is, but perhaps it’s encouraged as freedom of expression.

Finally, there are even more bicyclists than the city’s bike-friendy reputation would lead you expect – thousands of them, not a single one wearing a helmet.  Remarkably, though, I saw no bike/car or bike/pedestrian encounters.  Bikes here are a means of transportation, not pieces of exercise equipment.  They’re sturdy, one-speed machines, and no one treats them as hot rods.  (I only saw one rider sporting spandex and a garish shirt; everyone else was wearing street clothes or even business attire.)  Pretty sane.