Serbia: Iron Gates and Lepenski Vir, July 9
Several years ago I read Patrick Leigh Fermor’s fascinating three-volume account of his walk from Rotterdam to the Black Sea … Continue reading Serbia: Iron Gates and Lepenski Vir, July 9
Several years ago I read Patrick Leigh Fermor’s fascinating three-volume account of his walk from Rotterdam to the Black Sea … Continue reading Serbia: Iron Gates and Lepenski Vir, July 9
What a difference the lack of a bloodthirsty megalomaniacal dictator makes! Bulgaria, like Romania, spent nearly a half century under … Continue reading Bulgaria: Ruse and Vidin, July 7-8
Three and a half hours from Bucharest (counting the hour it took to get out of the city) lies Constanta, … Continue reading Constanta and Romania Wrap-Up, July 6
I’m in Bucharest for the beginning of a trip with Tauck down the Danube from Romania through Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, … Continue reading Bucharest and Bran, July 2-5, 2023
My introduction to the enigma of Andorra began with the inaptly named “Directbus” from Barcelona airport, which was anything but, … Continue reading Andorra, May 1-2
Two hours south of Bilbao, Atapuerca is an archeological treasure trove sitting atop low, rolling hills covered in wheat fields. … Continue reading Atapuerca, Bilbao, Adios, and Gracias, April 30
This edition of Notes from the Underground features a visit to El Pendo cave. It’s an out-of-the-way place with little … Continue reading El Pendo Cave and Bilbao, April 29
Like the Holy Roman Empire (neither holy, Roman, or an empire, “discuss” (obscure SNL reference), our first base of operations … Continue reading Santillana Del Mar, Monte Castillo, Altamira, April 28
If you’ve seen one cave, you’ve seen … one cave. Each one is different, with its own geology, its own … Continue reading Gargas and Adieu to France, April 27
This is what I was waiting for! Pech Merle is a wonderland of fantastical stalactites and stalagmites, 30,000-year-old handprints on … Continue reading Pech Merle and Saint-Cirq-Lapopie (SCL), April 26