Brisbane, Australia (Dec. 18)

Two days ago, I wrote that Vanuatu has been deemed the happiest place on earth.  This may be so, but it is also among the unluckiest:  after being hit by three cyclones in the past year, it suffered a devastating earthquake less than 48 hours after we left.  The pier where we docked no longer exists, and the road my brother and I walked along is largely buried under landslides.  I hope with all my heart that the people of this beautiful island can recover quickly, and that the international community does whatever it can to expedite and support rescue efforts and rebuilding.

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I feel unqualified to write about Brisbane because, unlike the other ports on this cruise, I didn’t have an opportunity to explore the city on foot or visit its numerous attractions. 

View toward Brisbane (barely visible on the horizon) from the ship; the port is 21 km from downtown

Unfortunately, four factors squelched any plans for meaningful touring: (1) an abbreviated time in port (all aboard was 3:30); (2) soggy, windy weather; (3) no companies offering private tours from the port, unlike almost every other stop on this cruise; and (4) the inexcusable absence of public transportation between the city and the port.  There’s a rail line that goes to the nearby international airport and lots of empty land between the airport and the seaport, so a rail extension would seem to make sense.  I know if this cruise were on Azamara, the company would have arranged for free shuttles into and back from town, but Norwegian did not.

It didn’t rain all day; this reflection picture was taken at the Mt. Coot-Tha Lookout during a brief peek of sunshine

Instead, my brother and I took a ship’s tour entitled “Leisurely Brisbane,” which consisted of a three-hour motor coach ride past the city’s main points of interest.  So instead of my usual extensive commentary (I hear your exhalations of relief already), I’ll make this more of a photo essay.  Many of the photos were taken through the rain-streaked window of a moving bus, so please excuse any blurring; it’s not you, it’s me.

Mud flats with pelican (trust me) on the port side

Brisbane’s port lies around thirty minutes outside the city, unprepossessingly sited between mud flats and an armada of container ships. 

Container ships to starboard

As our first stop in Australia, everyone on the ship had to go through immigration, which meant standing in line with hundreds of fellow cruisers.  Credit goes to the immigration officials, though:  the line moved steadily, and I cleared border control in just half an hour.

The Story Bridge

Our trip through the city took us past the Story Bridge (1935), an attractive cantilevered steel span, and through blocks of sleek skyscrapers. 

Skyscrapers

I saw few older buildings; Brisbane has been a settlement for more than 150 years (it was a penal colony before that), but it gives off a thoroughly modern vibe.

Corner of the Treasury Building (begun 1882, opened 1930 – note: do not hire this contractor!!!)

We then ascended to a lookout point on Mt. Coot-Tha (300 m), which on clear days offers awe-inspiring vistas of Brisbane and its surroundings.  During our visit, alas, Brisbane was a mere rumor.  

The rumor of Brisbane

I did enjoy the sign for the lookout, which made it sound like the mountain had a rapper’s name as an alias.

Heading back into town, we drove through the South Bank district, which is dotted with galleries, cafes, bars, and restaurants.  It looks like a wonderful place to explore on a dry day with no time pressure.

View from Kangaroo Point lookout

Our final stop was a photo op at Kangaroo Point, overlooking downtown Brisbane and the just-opened Neville Bonner pedestrian bridge.  Then it was back to the ship in time to sail away through pelting rain and gusting winds.

Bye-bye Brisbane

I regret not having more time and better weather to explore this attractive, energetic-seeming city.  We’re at sea today and tomorrow (family and friends, please resist remarking that I’m at sea most days, even when I’m on land), and then we disembark in Melbourne, closing out my 2024 travels except for the flights home.

St. John’s Cathedral, Brisbane (1910)

I’ll make my final post on this trip in a few days, including a few words about Melbourne and lots of words – many positive but some not – about cruising on NCL.

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