Montenegro: Budva, Perast and Kotor (Oct. 24)

Before yesterday’s visit, I would have been hard-pressed to distinguish Montenegro from Monty Python.  Now I know it’s something completely different – it has fewer parrots and many, many more cats!

Sunrise on the sail into Kotor

It’s also a lovely, welcoming place.  Our port of call was Kotor, an ancient city (probably founded around 200 BCE) facing a bay surrounded on three sides by steep mountains. 

Approaching Kotor

Our guide, Mirko Pantovič (Spot Travel, +382 69 199 838)) was terrific, giving us a crash course in Montenegran politics, history, sports, culture, and mythology while expertly conducting us to and through three stunning spots:  Budva, Perast, and Kotor.

Kotor’s bay

Budva has an even older pedigree than Kotor, having been founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BCE.  Over the years, it’s been controlled by Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Venetians, Hapsburgs, Austrians, Italians (during World War II), and finally Yugoslavia, before Montenegro finally gained independence in 2006. 

Old Town Budva

Today, it’s facing a peaceful but economically and environmentally disruptive invasion by Russians and Ukrainians fleeing the war. 

Old Town Budva

Despite all that, Budva remains charming.  The walls of the Stari Grad (Old City) abut a beautiful seafront.  The area immediately inside the entrance to the Old City is commercialized (including a Hard Rock Café), but a bit further on there are beautiful churches, pristine squares, and many, many cats.

Detail above the main door of the orthodox Church of the Holy Trinity
Side entrance to the orthodox church

Why so many cats?  They’ve been revered since medieval times, when they killed infected rats.  Even centuries later, they are coddled and cherished – more on that when I talk about Kotor in a few paragraphs.

Admittedly, the cats aren’t universally loved

Our next stop was Perast, a tiny town (population around 200 people) jammed between the bay and the mountains.  Perast is famous for two offshore islands, one natural (St. George) and one (Our Lady of the Rocks), man-made.  

Perast waterfront
Perast seen from Our Lady of the Rocks

Legend has it that sailors once found an icon of the Madonna and Child on a rock and added their own rocks each time they returned from a successful voyage. 

Our Lady of the Rocks
Islet of St. George. The building is a 12th century monastery.

The island is dominated by a church (you can guess the name) and small but interesting museum. 

Cathedral of St. Tryphon, Kotor

We ended our tour in Kotor, whose Old City is magnificent; indeed, it’s a double UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Kotor alley
Alley + cat = alley cat
Interesting railing

Highlights include a beautiful Orthodox Church, centuries-old administrative buildings (many of which had to be reconstructed after a devastating earthquake in 1979), the Cathedral of St. Tryphon (1166), and, of course, the Cats’ Square. 

A splash of color
Fake laundry (made of metal) outside a bar
Church in the hills above the old town

I’m much more of a dog person, but I have to admit the hundreds of cats enhance the allure of an already charming place. 

Ciao for now, and meow all your travels be joyful!

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