Hungary: Budapest, July 13

Hungarian Parliament building

This morning we bid viszontlátásra (thank you, Google Translate) to the M/S Treasures, the beautiful ship that’s been our home for the past week.  This was my first trip with Tauck, and it was a wonderful experience.  I’ll write a review of the ship and a comparison to Viking in a couple of days, once I’m home.

The Palace of Justice seen from inside the Parliament building

From the ship, our guide, Ádám, brought us to the ever-so-modest Hungarian Parliament building.  Rather than writing about our visit – adjectives have yet to be invented that accurately describe the interior – I’ll turn this part of the post into a photo essay:

Parliament has a gift shop. Perhaps it’s a way of keeping taxes down?
What better place than the lobby of a legislature to have a hot air balloon ride, virtual or not?
The “Golden Staircase”
A never-ending hallway
The “Grand Staircase”
Stained glass windows are everywhere
Statues of “ordinary Hungarians” on the way to the Session Hall
Cigar holders outside the session hall. Smoking is no longer period, but back in the day, when only men could be legislators and cigars probably represented virility (Freud may have been Viennese, but certain principles are universal), they were commonplace.
The Session Hall
The red star that crowned the building during communist times

After the tour of Parliament, our next stop was Heroes Square and a walk through the city park. 

Statues honoring Hungary’s heroes
Statue purporting to show Magyars arriving in Hungary. As our guide noted, it’s more likely they were riding “cute little ponies” than mighty war horses.

The park is the intended home of the city’s major museums, and several have opened already, including a new, Japanese-influenced House of Music and the Ethnographic Museum, which looks like an enormous skateboard ramp.

The Ethnographic Museum

For lunch, a few of us went to Százéves Étterem, the “100 Years Restaurant,” which actually opened in 1831 and is the oldest restaurant in the city.  (Étterem, which means “restaurant,” is the one Hungarian word I’ve learned.)  The atmosphere is, well, atmospheric, but the food is nothing special. 

The “100 Years” Restaurant

Budapest is a beautiful and exciting city reminiscent of Paris in many ways (other than prices, which are far lower).  When people in the United States hear of Hungary, it’s usually because of some restrictive measure taken by Hungary’s far-right Prime Minister, Viktor Orbán.  Yet people here remain free (so far) to criticize the government – in fact, when I asked our guide, who moonlights as a stand-up comic, whether he discusses politics in his routine, he said that’s all he discusses and that he feels secure in doing so.

I’ve seen numerous posters for concerts by the remnants of rock bands that were popular 50 or 60 years ago. The break-up and subsequent history of the prog rock band, Yes, is pretty amazing. (Anyone who’s known me since high school knows of my relatively brief but quite intense prog rock phase, and I still consider “Fragile” a terrific album.) I also saw a poster for the “Earth Wind & Fire Experience.”

Budapest certainly doesn’t feel like a city under the thumb of a would-be dictator.  While Orbán is an undeniable threat to democratic ideals, a few people cautioned us not to believe his anti-Western, anti-EU rhetoric and to focus instead on his actions (such as taking millions of dollars in development money from the EU).  Particularly following Russia’s invasion of the Ukraine, people seem convinced Orbán isn’t about to cozy up to Putin in any meaningful way.

Hungary is a fairly poor country, but some people obviously have money!

I keep forgetting this is a travel blog, not a political report, but in this part of the world the two cannot be separated. I’ll leave you with a serene photo of St. Stephens Basilica, where we walked after enjoying a very good dinner at Aszu, a Hungarian restaurant near out hotel.

St. Stephens Basilica

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