Just another day in paradise. Overcast and wind quickly gave way to sun and a breeze as we followed the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path through varied terrain. We started with steep climbs and descents along shoreside cliffs of Devonian rocks, with stone-strewn beaches below. After a couple of miles, the path leveled out and the beaches turned sandy. We walked through bucolic fields, reaching a headland of sea caves and squawking guillemots. Turning away from the ocean, we passed a sign warning us to look out for baby toads (the amphibian theme continued at our final destination; the town of Tenby has both an upper and a lower Frog Street), then walked through an area of woods and lakes, finally reaching the town of Stackpole after a hike of almost seven miles.
In Stackpole we had what was billed as a “typical pub lunch” accompanied by a pint. The food was fine and the beer, I’m happy to report, was marvelously cold and delicious (nectar of the gods #3). After lunch we headed to Tenby, which oozes charm from shop-lined, cobblestoned alleys and pastel, stucco and pebble-dashed houses. Tenby is a floral riot: overflowing baskets of blossoms with as many colors as a deluxe Crayola set hang from sconces and ornate wrought iron railings. Flower-filled planters adorn every fish and chip shop, crafts vendor, art gallery, ice cream store, and pub. (A note on the ice cream, which was yummy: a “double” includes three scoops, but two of them must be the same flavor. Welsh math, like the Welsh tongue, is impenetrable.) The town once was walled, and sections of the ramparts remain, as does a Welsh fort guarding the dogs, seagulls, and children on the harbor beachfront.
Time for nectar of the gods #4: new friend Steve treated me to a pour of excellent Elijah Craig Barrel Proof bourbon during pre-dinner cocktails. Our farewell dinner featured a tasting menu including lobster, halibut, and sea bass among other delicacies, culminating in a dessert combining honeyed mascarpone and macadamia nut wafers. After averaging 20,000 steps a day this week, I have no guilt – only a deep, warm satisfaction.
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