Helsinki is a perfect antidote to the emotional chill of St. Petersburg. It’s a green, compact place with broad avenues, bustling tram cars, inviting cafes, and enticing outdoor markets.
Our brief tour hit three of Helsinki’s most popular attractions. First, we stopped at the Sibelius memorial, a simple and stark array of silver pipes, reminiscent of a church organ, which ideally suits this composer’s spare and brooding work.
On the way we passed statues of or buildings designed by three Finnish heroes of American crossword puzzles, Paavo Nurmi and Elial and Eero Saarinen.
The Rock Church (a/k/a Temppeliaukion Kirkkula), our second stop, was a bit disappointing. From the outside it’s just a rock outcropping with a nondescript dome and glass doors. The interior is spacious and serene, with wonderful acoustics (there was a pianist playing classical music during our visit).
It’s impressive from an engineering standpoint, having been carved out of solid rock. Somehow, though, the entire package was underwhelming.
Our tour concluded at Senate Square, a large plaza bounded by the gleaming Helsinki Cathedral (a beautiful building),
the Prime Minister’s offices, Helsinki University, and a row of attractive merchants’ homes that have been converted into kitschy souvenir shops. In the center of the square is a simple but commanding statue of Alexander II.
As enjoyable as the tour was, my walk back to the ship really highlighted Helsinki’s delights. One block from Senate Square is a sprawling open-air market, where I spent a half hour marveling at the most luscious berries I’ve ever seen, inhaling the aromas of a host of freshly prepared Finnish delicacies, and admiring (and buying) elegant handcrafted jewelry.
Meandering along several roads leading toward the ship, I passed beautiful parks and dozens of packed outdoor cafes. In July, at least, Helsinki is a charming place to wander, wonder, relax, and enjoy.